Tachometer Cable

The Tacho Cable for this model is marked QM125 2 WJ and is 570mm in length. There is an outer thread at one end for the engine fitting.

Having tried a local dealer and some online suppliers, I eventually got one on Ebay which is for a Suzuki GS750.

In most cases, Ebay has proved to be a useful reference, plus the sellers will actually answer your questions.

Dealer Hostility

When you go to some local dealers they are just not interested. You are better off ordering online.
With some dealers, having a Chinese bike is like having some contagious desease, but if they can afford to lose an £80 sale, then that's their problem rather than mine.

Replacement Final Drive chain And Sprockets

For this model, it is difficult to find a chain and sprocket set. The best siupllier is www.chinesemotorcyclepartsonline.co.uk or cmpo.co.uk

They were able to match mine and these are the nearest equivelants:
The replacement Rear sprocket has 41 Teeth instead of 45 but this is not a problem as the gearing will be less than 10% higher.
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Chain and Sprockets

Front: RMR200 428-15T Part Code 30214*1442*RMR200

Rear: RMR200 428-41T Part Code 30214*1442*RMR200

The Rear sprocket has 41 Teeth instead of 45 but this is not a problem as the gearing will be less than 10% higher. cmpo.co.uk

Alternative Suzuki sprockets

These replacement sprockets require a 520 chain instead of the standard 428 chain normally used with this model. This should not be a problem, as you normally replace the chain and sprockets together

JT Sprocket equivalents are:
Front: JTF434
Rear: JTF815

Suzuki equivelants are:

Front: Suzuki GN250 1982-1999 15 Teeth (520-15T)

Rear: Suzuki GT200 1979-1982 35 Teeth (520-35T)

These sprockets are normally available on ebay but make sure the rear sprocket has 4 mounting holes with a pitch of 78mm and the front sprocket has 13 inner teeth on the mounting hole.
The rear sprocket has less teeth but this will give you a higher top speed. The original gearing is really too low for a 200cc engine.

Chain 520 x 116 Links (Links may have to be removed due to the reduction in teeth of the rear sprocket). The advantage of this chain type is you can get a pre-stretched gold chain which will have a longer life, or if your'e feeling really exctravegant, you could get an 'O' link chain.
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Engine Sprocket Nut Removal

Another problem I had with this bike was removing the engine sprocket, as it is secured by a large nut. The trick is to leave the chain on and insert a piece of handrail through the rear wheel resting it on the swinging arm, then use a large torque wrench or a socket wrench with a length of steel tubing over it for extra leverage. You may also get away with pressing on the rear brake pedal but sometimes this isn't enough to stop the rear wheel turning.

It is not worth trying to jam a scewdriver between the sprocket teeth, as you may damage the casing or the alternator wiring. The required socket for this nut is around 26mm, but I found an Imperial equivelant socket which did the job.

Spraying the nut with Plus Gas or any similar penetrating oil will also help, or if it's really stuck, you could heat it with a Butane blowtorch before applying penetrating oil.

When refitting the nut you may use Copper Ease or something similar as this will help to prevent it siezing up in future. Don't use Loctite or any thread sealant as you will make it very difficult next time to remove it.

See also this useful Youtube video

See also my web page: www.conceptnews.org/xf200