Friday, 23 May 2014

Starter Clutch Problems

Starter Clutch Problems

When looking for engine parts for this model, always try using the reference number K166FML when searching on ebay and other sites. This usually produces some results.

My starter clutch jammed altogether, making impossible to start the engine via the starter motor.
Replacement of the starter clutch is made more difficult by the lack of special tools for the job.
In order to replace the starter clutch, you will need to remove the Left engine cover, then to remove the flywheel, you will need a flywheel extractor, available from this chines language site:

You will then need to go to this site: where you can oder it in English by pasting the above URL into their search box.  They will then order it for you (afer you make a payment)  and when it is in stock, you can order it for delivery (another payment.)  However it will do the job.

It is strongly advised to put a cloth under the flywheel, covering the oil hole at the bottom.  The chances are, when you get the flywheel off, loose parts will fall out and you don't want them in your gearbox.  It is a good idea to check for metal particles in the gearbox and to flush it all out to be on the safe side.

 NOTE Always scew a nut on the end of the flywheel thread, or otherwise it will look like an ice cream cone when you have finished !  It requires some serious torque to remove a flywheel as they seem to be forced on with a machine in the factory.

The starter clutch it'self can be ordered from:

Flywheel Woodruff Key
I have also had problems with a snapped Woodruff key caused by the starter clutch jamming .  The engine will not start when this happens. The correct Woodruff key for this model (which doesNOT require grinding or filing), is this one from Suzuki: UK.
Genuine Suzuki GT25EX (X7 1978-1981 Crankshaft Key 09420-04008-000

This can be found by doing a search on ebay.

Tuesday, 6 November 2012

Rear Brake Shoes
The correct rear brake shoes for this model is EBC330 or equivelent.
These are the same as those used on the Honda CG125


Tuesday, 16 October 2012

Front Brake Pads
You can use the following equivelants.  (The mounting hole pitch is 40mm)

•FA92  •FDB382  •SBS558  •FA323  •VD134  •VD136

Available at:


Wednesday, 22 September 2010

Tachometer Cable

The Tacho Cable for this model is marked QM125 2 WJ and is 570mm in length. There is an outer thread at one end for the engine fitting.

Having tried a local dealer and some online suppliers, I eventually got one on Ebay which is for a Suzuki GS750.

In most cases, Ebay has proved to be a useful reference, plus the sellers will actually answer your questions.

Dealer Hostility

When you go to some local dealers they are just not interested. You are better off ordering online.
With some dealers, having a Chinese bike is like having some contagious desease, but if they can afford to lose an £80 sale, then that's their problem rather than mine.

Replacement Final Drive chain And Sprockets

For this model, it is difficult to find a chain and sprocket set. The best siupllier is or

They were able to match mine and these are the nearest equivelants:
The replacement Rear sprocket has 41 Teeth instead of 45 but this is not a problem as the gearing will be less than 10% higher.

Chain and Sprockets

Front: RMR200 428-15T Part Code 30214*1442*RMR200

Rear: RMR200 428-41T Part Code 30214*1442*RMR200

The Rear sprocket has 41 Teeth instead of 45 but this is not a problem as the gearing will be less than 10% higher.

Alternative Suzuki sprockets

These replacement sprockets require a 520 chain instead of the standard 428 chain normally used with this model. This should not be a problem, as you normally replace the chain and sprockets together

JT Sprocket equivalents are:
Front: JTF434
Rear: JTF815

Suzuki equivelants are:

Front: Suzuki GN250 1982-1999 15 Teeth (520-15T)

Rear: Suzuki GT200 1979-1982 35 Teeth (520-35T)

These sprockets are normally available on ebay but make sure the rear sprocket has 4 mounting holes with a pitch of 78mm and the front sprocket has 13 inner teeth on the mounting hole.
The rear sprocket has less teeth but this will give you a higher top speed. The original gearing is really too low for a 200cc engine.

Chain 520 x 116 Links (Links may have to be removed due to the reduction in teeth of the rear sprocket). The advantage of this chain type is you can get a pre-stretched gold chain which will have a longer life, or if your'e feeling really exctravegant, you could get an 'O' link chain.

Engine Sprocket Nut Removal

Another problem I had with this bike was removing the engine sprocket, as it is secured by a large nut. The trick is to leave the chain on and insert a piece of handrail through the rear wheel resting it on the swinging arm, then use a large torque wrench or a socket wrench with a length of steel tubing over it for extra leverage. You may also get away with pressing on the rear brake pedal but sometimes this isn't enough to stop the rear wheel turning.

It is not worth trying to jam a scewdriver between the sprocket teeth, as you may damage the casing or the alternator wiring. The required socket for this nut is around 26mm, but I found an Imperial equivelant socket which did the job.

Spraying the nut with Plus Gas or any similar penetrating oil will also help, or if it's really stuck, you could heat it with a Butane blowtorch before applying penetrating oil.

When refitting the nut you may use Copper Ease or something similar as this will help to prevent it siezing up in future. Don't use Loctite or any thread sealant as you will make it very difficult next time to remove it.

See also this useful Youtube video

See also my web page: